Mongering has a mixed reputation. Rumors, war, and whores on one side; knives, cheese, and fish on the other. Fishmonger, which debuted in May, tips the scale in mongering’s favor. It channels the seaside fish markets of the Gulf Coast, where fresh catch is available but weirdly...

In its first week, Fishmonger sold nearly 700 pounds of fresh fish from the cold cases. Close to 60 grouper sandwiches are served each day, possibly the most popular lunch item on the menu. The hype surrounding Fishmonger is electric, validated by the stories piling up on the...

Fishmonger is one of the city’s most exciting recent openings. If there were such a measure as PPM—that is, pleasure per minute—surely Nhan Le and Skip Engelbrecht’s new Poncey-Highland restaurant would outrank many of its highly rated peers.